Doha ... and on the move to Melbourne

A few facts and comments on Doha, capital city of the Arabian Gulf State of Qatar.  Most of Qatar's near two million population live in the city and only 26% of them are female - an indication of the size and make up of the expatriate population (almost exclusively employed in the construction and service industries).  Construction abounds as a result of the enormous oil and gas reserves (the gas sector accounts for 42% of GDP) and Qatar has 26% of the world's helium reserves.

Petrol is about 30 cents per litre - hence there are cars everywhere and very big roads to carry them.  The local population is almost universally Muslim and the Eid holidays which have corresponded with our visit are associated with the Muslim world's Haj (pilgrimage to Mecca).

Visited the Museum of Islamic Art this morning.  Imposing building on the water with a range of permanent and temporary displays (including one featuring the History of the Haj through art, artifacts and photos/film/video).

Then time at the beach and the pool.  The staff are amazing, constantly greeting and offering assistance.

Late afternoon visit to Villagio Mall about 15km out of the centre - this is upmarket with a 500+ metre Venetian canal with gondola rides, an indoor ice skating rink, roller coaster and other rides and attractions.  All the shops are there with one passageway dedicated just to Gucci, Armani, Dior etc kid's shops.  The biggest car park I have seen since Disneyworld and 2km queues of cars on 4 and 5 lane wide roads trying to get in from all directions.  Absolutely packed due to the holiday period.

The last 24 hours we have had a limousine service provided by Akram, a Sri Lankan who has been in Qatar on and off for 13 years very reliable, personable, well priced - and he has been keeping me appraised of cricket scores.

And now we are at the airport with almost 14 hours of non-stop flying ahead of us!!!

Doha

Still a little chilly in Doha this morning!!!  Redemption at hand however with a taxi to Katara Cultural Centre and complimentary electric buggies with drivers on site.  Massive facility full of galleries, the arts, mosques, a huge marble amphitheatre and a very big beach - but quite a bit closed this morning because of public holiday and festival today.  All forgiven (almost) after an iced mocha and chocolates at the Chac'Late shop - superb!!!!

Festival is Eid Al Adha and the government prepared 278 mosques and prayer grounds, traffic is a mad house and families are out everywhere.  Animal sacrifices are an important ritual and the livestock market and its attached slaughter house have had a huge rush - with a lot of controversy.  Syrian sheep are the most favoured and most costly,  but sellers have been pushing up the price and passing Jordanian and Iranian sheep off as Syrian.  Genuine Syrian sell for 1800QR, Jordanian and Iranian should be less than 1000QR - Australian sheep, whose price is subsidised and fixed at 350QR, are shunned and bought only by the poor!!!!!

With the holiday, our pool and beach was busy, but the service is extraordinary - sun lounges personally set up, two huge towels each, cold face washers, face spray and bottled water.

Spent late afternoon and evening at The Pearl (taxi both ways!!!), a huge marina, retail and residential development on reclaimed land.  Upmarket (Rolls Royce and Ferrari dealerships over the street from one another) and big crowds enjoying the holiday spirit.

Doha is just an incredible place, the architecture and construction is staggering.  It is not the place for a holiday,  but an amazing place for a 2 or 3 day stopover.  Climate at this time of the year is perfect.

That's it for today as we are about to watch the fireworks from our room.

In to Doha, Qatar

Easy flight to Budapest, about 20% full, and then the masses got on.  It had also been the Budapest Marathon in the morning and competitors were disbursing to all parts via Doha.  A little after 1am when we got to the Doha Hilton.  Very good room on 16th floor looking across the water to the Pearl.  Staff are amazingly helpful and courteous

Late breakfast, then off to City Center Mall (mid range according to our Concierge - but not middle of mine!!!!).  Back for a relax around the Hotel beach and pool (water temperature about 25C) before heading off to Souq Waqif, the old Doha Souq.  Very big with a lot of alleys and all divided off by products eg materials, shoes, jewellery, spices, pets etc. Unlike the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, there was not one shopkeeper who had a brother with a restaurant in Essendon!!!!  Dinner at the Souq Waqif Boutique Hotel looking out on the Souq and the crowds - very good food, nice surroundings and attentive, friendly staff.

The intention was to have a nice 1km walk along the famous waterfront Corniche and then taxi back the remaining 5km to the Hilton.  This is where things went seriously wrong, as we simply could not get a cab, so we walked the whole way back.  My popularity plumbed new depths - even though it was another ticked off the bucket list.

Doha is like a massive construction zone, it is impossible not to have cranes and skyscraper construction in your sight - most of the time 4 or 5 of them.  Many roads are under construction, 4 and 5 lanes wide and without traffic lights they are hairy to cross.  The investment in Doha is simply incredible, as is the melting pot of peoples, cultures, dress etc - just such a contrast with Croatia.  The coffee price index has trebled since Zagreb - Doha is anything but cheap!!!!

On the move ...... Princess Aloha to Zagreb to Doha

Final farewells on Saturday morning as we all leave Princess Aloha and go our separate ways.  For us, it's the bus to Zagreb and a return to "our" Esplanade Hotel - it feels like home!!!!

What do we say about Princess Aloha cruise - great!!!!  Yes, the weather could have been better, but I doubt our fellow travellers could have been (and we were not drowned by crowds).  A really good group with excellent interaction (and benefiting from our small numbers).  Cruise Director, Martin, came to admit that we were his favourite group ever!!!!!!! Would he say that to others??????

Terrific crew, from the Captain down (it's his own boat - or his wife's, according to her - and he tends it lovingly).  It would be unfair to single other crew out because they were all so good - but front of house, Emil was just superb and a great role model for his sidekick, Renato.  Would we recommend it???? - absolutely, but possibly a couple of weeks earlier (although you will have a full boat and much bigger crowds).  Just make sure Martin is your Cruise Director.

An easy 3.5 hours on the bus to Zagreb, through the mountains (around 20 tunnels) and beautiful scenery - amazing how the trees have coloured up in the lat 3 weeks.

Down to the heart of Zagreb for the afternoon and dinner but the drizzle had started and our ever attentive Concierge insisted we take the Hotel's designer umbrellas - guess what!!!!!! Pat manages to have hers switched for a bodgy at one of Zagreb's upmarket stores!!!!!

Beautiful dinner at Paparazzo - fettuccine with forest mushrooms and shrimp.  Tomorrow is the Zagreb marathon.  It has only 400 entries plus 1000 for the half.  Talking to one of the pacemakers, she seemed to be aware of Melbourne Marathon legend, Shane D - but it turned out that she had Cliffy Young in mind!!!

The Esplanade is pure luxury and we love it - back to champagne for breakfast on Sunday, but I had to open it myself this morning!!!!  A last walk downtown and saw the marathon start (interesting to see more than a few starters have their final cigarette before the gun - and then the airport bus and flight to Doha.

Our overall impressions of Croatia and its people are very positive.  People are well dressed, pleasant to deal with, respectful (young woman even offered me a tram seat!!!!) and there is no evidence of serious poverty. Seemingly it's very safe and its people are keen to be outdoors.The Country is however among Europe's poorest, with little manufacturing, a declining population (particularly in rural areas) and high youth unemployment.  EU membership will be a challenge.  Very much it is a gem, just in need of a polish that economic circumstances are unlikely to permit.  It's a great holiday destination and you will get great value for your money.

On the move ..... to Zadar

Some more sunshine as we depart Sali for Zadar.  Time on sun deck after breakfast with Colin.  Colin from Cairns, Australia, has travelled extensively meeting people from all over the world.  Last night he was drinking with Russian and Hungarian sailors - this morning he was with Norm and Pat!!!!

With the sun out, time for another dip in the Adriatic (one drop out and three new starters from yesterday - "you know who" was not one of the new starters!!!!!).  Water temperature a pleasant 21C, but we are told Croatians only swim when it's 25C.

A bit of a storm on the way into Zadar and some light showers.  Zadar is Croatia's 5th largest city with a population of some 70,000, is on a peninsular and has a very well preserved/restored old town within its walls.  It was first inhabited in the 9th Century BC, has been the subject of numerous conquests and suffered severe damage in WW2 (allied bombing destroyed 60% of the then German occupied old city) and in the months it remained under siege from Yugoslav rockets from November 1991.  The period of Austrian rule saw the building of a great esplanade on the outside of the walls and in recent years an amazing 80 metre long Sea Organ driven by waves and wind was built together with a solar Sun Salutation feature that produces a solar light show. These have both added substantially to Zadar's growing tourism reputation.

Much evidence of Roman occupation remains, including parts of the Forum (built over in the 9th Century by the Church of St Donat) as well as the medieval gates and 16th Century city walls that remain intact today.

Last night on board Princess Aloha with the farewells commencing.  Another "complimentary food night" from the Captain and his wife to add to the earlier welcome dinner and caps and T shirts.

Late walk up to see the lights of the Sun Salutation and an ice cream.

Is that blue in the sky??????

Breakfast on board in Sibenik and then off in a bus to Krka National Park.  The park is on the Krka River and it's a mini Plitvice Lakes with lakes, rushing and gently moving waters and waterfalls.  It is not as remote and the water does not have the colour of Plitvice, paths etc are a bit less challenging and much shorter - but still quite spectacular.  It does contain a number of very old, but still operating, water wheels used to grind grain and soften wool.

While we were in the park, Princess Aloha headed a little north and we rejoined her at Vodice which has a very nice marina and is a popular seaside resort for the Croatian people.  Onward toward Sali via the Kornati National Park which has both marine and island components.  Many, many islands which are quite small, rocky and steep with very little vegetation and most of them featuring long stone fences running to the summits to manage small goat and sheep herds.  It is difficult to comprehend the work which went into constructing them.  A few tiny villages, occasional houses, chapels and small forts dot the multiplicity of islands making up the park.

With some continuing blue sky and a sheltered spot, four of us (she who "loves the water and swimming" excluded) took a dip off the back of the boat - very refreshing.

Sailed into Sali a very small port town on the island of Dugi Otok.  Very quiet as the season is at an end ....... except that we met what must have been close to the original "drunken sailors".  A big group of Russian and Hungarians having some sort of fleet race in the area - based on their condition last night it could be a slow race today!!!!

Still moving ...... but so is the rain

Early morning thunderstorm in Split but well settled before we sailed on to Trogir.  As we arrived, the rain started, so it was a wet guided tour.  Once again a very nice port town (UNESCO recognised) encircled by water.  The town's recorded history dates to Greek settlement around 400BC although most of the old town is now 15th Century.  Open air law court from the period with archipelago singers.

Trogir features the typical cathedrals and palaces of Croatian towns, but unlike many, it did not suffer badly in the great plague.  Quite a large market featuring a lot of home made olive oils, narrow winding, and of course, cobbled streets and well preserved properties.

Sailed on to Sibenik (much of the time through the rain) passing numerous islands (small and large) with many of the larger ones terraced with vineyards and olive fields and having attractive towns and villages on the water.  Rain had stopped by Sibenik which is quite different to our other stops.

It is much larger (mainland) with a population of around 50,000, is much more "modern", not having been established until well into the middle ages and was not originally occupied by the Greeks or Illyrians and has much more of a "Croatian" background although variously ruled by, among others, Venice, Hungary and Austria.  It is also one of the poorer areas of the country and was the subject of attack by Yugoslav forces until liberated in 1995.  A labyrinth of steep and narrow winding streets and alleyways everywhere in the old town - and of course a magnificent Cathedral and baptistery (UNESCO recognised).  Did the touring on our own as Martin is not "licensed" for this area - but it is hard for him to resist!!!

Martin also tells us that we are privileged to be on the cruise through this weather - because it is something most Croatians have never experienced!!!!!!!!

Big Captain's Dinner tonight with the fish option comprising fish soup, black risotto, grilled whole bass ++ - and then the band came on board for Croatian and popular music.  A big night!!

On the move ..... and the rain continues

Still raining as we move on to Bol on Brac Island (keen readers will recall that we previously visited Supertar on this island - and we swam!!!!!!).  A quick wander between showers in a very nice town built around its port, but the approaching season end, and the Independence Day public holiday, meant it was quiet.

Sailed past Zlatni Rat beach (Croatia's finest) but the weather ensured it was bereft of sunbathers and swimmers (us included).  Onward to Split via another 5 course lunch and easing weather - about 19C and improving a little.  Lost 6 of our passengers in Split - Australian travel agents undertaking research, at least that's what they call it!!!!

Walking tour of Diocletian's Palace in Split, to those parts we had earlier kept in reserve, including the massive Basements, Cathedral of St Domnuis, mausoleum and the Temple of Jupiter.  Martin, our Cruise Director is very knowledgeable and is in his element as a guide. 

The Palace was constructed over 10 years, covers 31,000 square metres and contains 220 buildings.

Wandered the streets and the alleys of the Palace before a slice of pizza (need to make room for two 5 course feasts tomorrow) and a coffee for some final people watching on the Riva.

On the move ..... in the rain

The weatherman has finally caught us ... and how!!!!!  After keeping ahead of the forecast for 4 days with good to very good weather, we have just had a shocker and it does not look like getting better.

Woke to rain in Korcula and it continued all day.  Did our guided tour in the rain and it is a most interesting place.  The town dates to 600 BC, was fully fortified in earlier days and of course the subject of numerous conquests.  The street layout is "fishbone" with a main street spine and radiating side streets designed to take advantage of and minimise the impacts of prevailing winds.  On one side they are straight to take advantage of the cooling summer breeze and on the other, they are curved to deflect the winter winds - and we think we are smart!!!!!

Korcula's biggest claim is that it was home to Marco Polo - a claim disputed by others.  There is some strong supporting anecdotal evidence and of course there are Polo families still living in the town!!!!

Onward to Hvar Island and the rain, winds and choppy seas required us to dock in Jelsa a small port town on the east side of the island for protection.  As always, a very nice port with a long promenade - but not at its best in the rain.  Bussed into Hvar Town for a town tour and free time at night.  The town is one of Croatia's hot spots for night life and the groovy people.  Most of them kept indoors due to the rain!!!  The town has fortified walls dating to the 13th century and ornamental Gothic palaces.  In earlier times Hvar Town was segregated between the aristocracy and the commoners (upper and lower parts of town).

Hvar has more than 2724 hours of sunshine each year - not one minute of those occurring today!!!!  Very nice restaurant on the waterfront for grilled squid.

On the move ...... Dubrovnik to Korcula

Still cannot believe the dolphin episode from yesterday - if Pat had not been with me,  and seen it too, I would not have believed it.  Early breakfast and off for an 'official' walking tour of Dubrovnik.  Great guide (there seem to be even more guides than restaurants in Dubrovnik) and we visited the Franciscan Monastery (which we had kept in reserve for this purpose).  The Monastery contains the third oldest pharmacy in the world - still functioning, and evidences shrapnel damage from the Balkans war as well as one location where a mortar penetrated the outer wall and hit an inner wall 8m inside.

Pulled away from Dubrovnik at noon, with a 5 course lunch (waiter service) following.  The Captain made a call to give Mljet a miss because of the wind and the shortening days.   Weather ok (much better than forecast) and seas a bit choppy - but still doing better than the forecast. 

Tied up in Korcula at 6pm for a walk around town - and as it's Sunday,  mass was on in the cathedral.  Once again, a full house with plenty of young people. Day ended with another 5 course feast.

Qn the move ..... to Princess Aloha

Our last morning at Lavanda Apartment, last pre-breakfast visit to the bakery and last entry to Ploce Gate.  Quick visit into the old town for a coffee and, in the interests of balance, to the Synogogue and the Mosque.The Dubrovnik Synogogue is the second oldest in the Balkans dating back to the 15th century and the jews of Dubrovnik were required to wear identifying arm bands and limited to a ghetto as far back as the 1520's.

On time pick up for Princess Aloha and on board by 12.30pm.  Rested the legs and wandered the "big" harbour.  Have seen two amazing on the water events today.  Off our terrace this morning we saw a big tuna feeding frenzy and, while wandering Gruz Harbour this afternoon we were watching two navy rubber ducks thinking they had divers down below.  Suddenly a dolphin leapt out of the water onto one of them, was covered to protect it and the rubber duck headed to base - presumably a trainng exervise in sonar and detection!!!!

Princess Aloha is just a little over 12 months old.  37m long and 7.7m wide - luxurious all over.  Capacity of 40 passengers but we are only a little over half full and about half of the passeners are Australian (then US). Boat is owned by Captain and his wife - tonight was his birthday so we had a celebratory dinner.

Montenegro

An early start for a day in Montenegro.  Pick up point for Pat and I was the Excelsior Hotel 70m up the street.  The hotel has been the venue for an inter-government congress of leaders.  As a result, the surrounds were a hive of police, security agents and dogs.  Despite this security, we waited at the front door, surrounded by them all, without challenge - two foreigners with back packs!!!!!

Our group comprised 8 people.  Up through the border crossing into Montenegro (passports required).  First stop Budva, which is a town of significant Russian presence, students and "Russian money" (as is the whole of Montenegro).  The town has a small walled old city, lovely beaches, resorts, Casino Royale and amazing boats

On to Kotor on the Bay of Kotor which is an incredible drive with towering mountains almost to the water on both sides - just spectacular scenery.  The old town is enclosed by a wall which runs up a steep mountain.  It is in excess of 5km long and is the second longest wall on earth after the Great Wall of China (I am sure I read this somewhere).

Once again the weather gods spoilt us - but it does not seem that this can continue????  The ship the "World" was tied up in Kotor on the main street and a five mast Clipper at anchor in the Bay.

Back on the grilled squid for dinner, a quick stint in a church service (full house) and lots of entertainment in the main square.

Dubrovnik

A cool and breezy morning gave way to another beautiful, cloudless day (but the next few days don't look so good).  Another round of museums, galleries and churches before heading back to our terrace for lunch and conversation with Stijepo' mum.

A quick swim at Banje Beach and then off to the laundromat - never knew that washing machines and dryers were so easy!!!!!!

Late afternoon on the cable car to Mt Srd saw us there for great sunset.  Great views also of Dubrovnik and the surrounding islands.  The cable car was destroyed during the war and it was 19 years before it was rebuilt.

Dinner at Restaurant Dubrovnik (our most upmarket so far).  Very nice venue and very good service - but value for money there are better.  The old town of Dubrovnik is only around 160,000 square metres and there are more than 250 restaurants.  To and from the restaurant on the Stradun saw more musical activity and even a mature age fashion parade.

Lokrum and Cavtat

On the ferry to Lokrum Island for a 5km route march.  Lokrum is a nature reserve just off the coast at Dubrovnik.  It features more peacocks than you can ever imagine and stands of eucalypts and wattles in its botanical gardens.  Opportunity for a quick game of bocce (2 zip win) before the walk which was fairly tough - Pat resorting to "how much further" with about 1km to go.

Then off to Cavtat about 10km south of Dubrovnik (50 minutes on the ferry).  Beautiful small coastal town built around its port.  Cavtat has a special place in the history of Dubrovnik as its original inhabitants (Greeks) fled from the Slavs and established Dubrovnik in 614.  The water is so blue and clear, and the coastline so rugged.

A bit of excitement on the way down as we came within about 4m of running over a swimmer.  This guy was swimming across the old Dubrovnik harbour - an area where there is a boat departing or entering almost every minute.

Had dinner at another of  Stijipo's recommended and discounted restaurants - Spaghetteria Toni, magnificent seafood lasagne.  On the way home spent time at a concert and visited the Memorial Rooms to the Defenders of Dubrovnik - those who died in thr city's defence and a video presentation on the damage wreaked on the city in the 1991/92 war.

Dubronik

We have a wonderful apartment just 300m outside the Ploce Gate.  It is quite small but is part of owner's complex and we already feel part of the family.  A corner of the complex was bombed during the early 1990's war years and a resident killed.

Big storms last night wiped out the Brian Ferry concert but lovely day today.

Dubrovnik has a long, challenged  and destruction filled history including a number of sieges and wars - the most recent of which in 1991 we have knowledge of.  It is also earthquake prone with a massive quake in 1667 almost destroying the city, and another big one in the 1960's.  You can still see many war scars in the walled part of the city, but there has also been great rebuilding.  Within the walls there is some 1400 years of history, although fortification did not come until prior to the 12th century.

As we have an apartment now, we had to fend for ourselves for breakfast - 250m to the supermarket and 200m to the bakery (small change is always a problem and I am in debt to the bakery by 1kn).  Cash is the preferred arrangement for everything and generally attracts a 10% discount.  Walked the walls of the old city early, pretty much on our own - 1hour 40 minutes of spectacular scenery (would have been an extra hour later in the day).  Followed this with a number of museums, galleries and cathedrals.

Afternoon swim at Banje Beach, 100m and 80 steps from our front door.  Water so clear.  Back into old town for dinner at a Bosnian restaurant where we had the house specialities (meat).

On the move ......... to Dubrovnik

Overnight storms and morning drizzle saw us depart Split for Dubrovnik.  Very good new toll road for 80km then across the mountains and through the valleys to the coast.  Mountains rugged and valleys large, flat and fertile with all sorts of fruit & vegetables, grapes and olives being grown.

Hit the coast about 80km north of Dubrovnik - spectacular views and beautiful harbours with lots of mussel and oyster farms.  Travel to Dubrovnik requires a trip of about 5km through Bosnia Hercegovina including border control.

Our Dubrovnik apartment is just above Banje Beach, 300m to the city wall and is across the road from the Excelsior Hotel - Dubrovnik's most iconic.  Once again home to kings, queens and movie stars.  The Hotel celebrates its centenary tonight and has brought in Brian Ferry for a free public concert on the Stradun for the occasion.  Our apartment is not large but we have a private terrace of about 30m x 6m overlooking the sea and the old town.  Our host, Stijepo, has filled us in with restaurants & sightseeing suggestions etc.

At first glimpse, Dubrovnik is stunning.  We have only had a quick wander and dinner so far - grilled squid again for me (magic).

A day in Split

Still in the low 20'sC but we have experienced our first day with some wind in Croatia.  Spent some time in the market and then a couple of hours in Diocletian's Palace.  In fact it is much more than a palace, it is pretty much a town in itself.  You could very easily get lost in its myriad of passageways and features.  At this stage we have avoided much of it's historical significance because we will be back in 10 days on our cruise with a guided tour.

The Palace was jumping this morning - 3 cruise liners and many, many walking tours.  Within its boundaries are 36 places of cultural significance, 7 hotels, more apartments than you could count, 45+ restaurants and 100+ shops.

Windy and choppy at the beach so we walked away from the centre - more beaches, more marinas and more restaurants.  Dinner at Konoba Marjan - number 3 restaurant based on TripAdvisor reviews.  Very good food and service, but value for money, hard to beat our own Villa Dianna.  With some drizzling rain walked back through the Palace - hard to believe it was the throbbing heart we saw on Friday night and this morning.

Split is most interesting because of its palace and frenetic port activity.  Appears to have very good public transport, but street infrastructure is fairly dilapidated in some spots. I even saw some wiring run down on the inside of a downpipe!!!