On the move ......... to Dubrovnik

Overnight storms and morning drizzle saw us depart Split for Dubrovnik.  Very good new toll road for 80km then across the mountains and through the valleys to the coast.  Mountains rugged and valleys large, flat and fertile with all sorts of fruit & vegetables, grapes and olives being grown.

Hit the coast about 80km north of Dubrovnik - spectacular views and beautiful harbours with lots of mussel and oyster farms.  Travel to Dubrovnik requires a trip of about 5km through Bosnia Hercegovina including border control.

Our Dubrovnik apartment is just above Banje Beach, 300m to the city wall and is across the road from the Excelsior Hotel - Dubrovnik's most iconic.  Once again home to kings, queens and movie stars.  The Hotel celebrates its centenary tonight and has brought in Brian Ferry for a free public concert on the Stradun for the occasion.  Our apartment is not large but we have a private terrace of about 30m x 6m overlooking the sea and the old town.  Our host, Stijepo, has filled us in with restaurants & sightseeing suggestions etc.

At first glimpse, Dubrovnik is stunning.  We have only had a quick wander and dinner so far - grilled squid again for me (magic).

A day in Split

Still in the low 20'sC but we have experienced our first day with some wind in Croatia.  Spent some time in the market and then a couple of hours in Diocletian's Palace.  In fact it is much more than a palace, it is pretty much a town in itself.  You could very easily get lost in its myriad of passageways and features.  At this stage we have avoided much of it's historical significance because we will be back in 10 days on our cruise with a guided tour.

The Palace was jumping this morning - 3 cruise liners and many, many walking tours.  Within its boundaries are 36 places of cultural significance, 7 hotels, more apartments than you could count, 45+ restaurants and 100+ shops.

Windy and choppy at the beach so we walked away from the centre - more beaches, more marinas and more restaurants.  Dinner at Konoba Marjan - number 3 restaurant based on TripAdvisor reviews.  Very good food and service, but value for money, hard to beat our own Villa Dianna.  With some drizzling rain walked back through the Palace - hard to believe it was the throbbing heart we saw on Friday night and this morning.

Split is most interesting because of its palace and frenetic port activity.  Appears to have very good public transport, but street infrastructure is fairly dilapidated in some spots. I even saw some wiring run down on the inside of a downpipe!!!

Supertar on the island of Brac

Breakfast on the terrace and then we watched the last few minutes of the Grand Final.

A few words about Hotel Villa Dianna.  I have already mentioned its excellent location - it really is more of a B&B than a hotel, but it has a restaurant.  It's family owned and run and we have the biggest room, big bedroom, sitting area, two tv's and a very large modern bathroom.  Breakast and restaurant are great -stunning black risotto and grilled calamari tonight (often there is also a little "it's on the house" as well).  It is on a busy road but with the windows and shutters closed it is very quiet.  The terrace being close to the road is great for people watching.

Caught the ferry to Supertar on the island of Brac, it's a small town sitting on a lovely harbour.  The town dates to the Roman Emperors and the island's white marble was used to build Diocletian's Palace and the White House in Washington.  Supertar is also the home town of Ivan Redic, considered the pioneer and master of Croatian architecture.  After a walk around town, Pat had a manicure and I drank beer at $2.80 per half litre.  We swam and had coffee and snacks in waterside restaurants - could easily move over.  Water is crystal clear and still of good temperature although the "season" is ending.

Split

Early morning to the beach (for one of us) then breakfast on the terrace.

Walked the Riva and then climbed to the top of Marjan Park for the view - managed to find 250 steps to get us there plus a steep path. Into Diocletian's Palace which dates to AD 295 when the then Roman Emperor Diocletian built it as his retirement palace.  It is huge and is the living heart of the city with cathederal, museums, bars, shops, restaurants and of course people.

Feet up for a while before a swim at Bacvice Beach.  Bacvice is a real people's beach with the good, the bad and the ugly, bodywise - we felt comfortably mid-range!!!!!

It was then something of a pilgrimage back to the Palace for dinner at Figa.  This provided opportunity to feel close to our great friends Irene and Paul who had dined there just a few weeks back before heading to France where Paul so sadly and suddenly passed away.

More time then in the alleyways and paths of the Palace which looks stunning at night and is jumping with people.  Back to Hotel Villa Dianna via the Riva.  All of the Split  based small cruising boats were in port because Saturday is passenger changeover day - they were berthed four and five wide.  We crossed our fingers that our boat will not be like some of the "party boats" we saw!!!

On the move ...... to Split

A relaxing day today after the vigorous exercise of the last two days as we departed Plitvice for Split.  Four and a half hours via Zadar and Sibenek with contrasting scenery from pastoral valleys, through the mountains (a number of tunnels including one of 5.8km) and down the coast road.  Beautiful views and boats to die for.

Into Split only to be ripped off by a taxi driver - but anything to avoid Pat having to walk another 500m uphill (no wonder he drove a Mercedes).  Hotel Villa Dianna is great - 300m to Bacvice beach and 500m to the Palace.

Walked to the beach and along the Riva (lots of ferries and restaurants) with everyone enjoying a beautiful 25C.  A pre-dinner drink and open air dinner at our hotel (love those grilled calamari).  Hotel has only 6 rooms, is family owned and run - love it, even on the 2nd floor.  The staff had our cases before the taxi doors opened.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

A good sleep after yesterday's exercise and an early breakfast to take in more of this spectacular park. Another magnificent day and we headed off to the lower lakes via two boat trips and then another 4km walk.  Great scenery and the water is so blue, clear and absolutely teeming with fish up to 2 or 3kg.

The early start  mean't we only encountered the rush of day trippers in the half hour or so before heading back for lunch.  It would be a battle if you were here in peak season.

Another good 5km walk this afternoon (leaving our start until just before the day trippers left) has meant we have had a very comprehensive experience of this wonderland of lakes, waterfalls, cascades and forest.  Our walk again ended at the foot of those ubiquitous 300 steps!!!!

On the move ....... to Plitvice Lakes National Park

As we depart Zagreb, the city justifies a few comments.  It is undoubtedly the graffiti capital of the world ..... while much, but regrettably not all, derives from the country's troubled past, it seems part of the city's character.  It has some wonderful buildings, a lively presence, a seemingly contented  and homogenous people, a relaxed lifestyle and a very good public transport system.  The big majority of the population are lithe and very fit looking (MacDonalds is yet to take hold) yet smoking appears almost universal.  A great contradiction is the fit young bodies, including young mums, lighting up at every turn.

Anyway, a last champagne breakfast at the Esplanade and a wander through the Botanical Gardens before checkout and bus to Plitvice Lakes National Park (UNESCO recognised).  Pleasantly surprised by Plitvice Hotel which is in the park.  We have very big room with balcony almost in the forest.  After a late lunch, took the shuttle to the top lakes and walked 5km back (finishing with 300 steps).

The lakes are a spectacular colour,  the water so clear (fish everywhere) and beautiful waterfalls and cascades.  It is easy to see why the lakes are one of the world must sees.

Unfortunately wifi here is very problematic.  Connectivity is poor and while occasional downloading is ok, uploading seeme impossible.  Blog will have to wait - the woes of modern living!!!

Varazdin

Bus up to Varazdin for the day.  Varazdin is about 80km north of Zagreb and preceded Zagreb as capital city for a few years until a huge fire in 1776.  It is however quite small, with a population a little over 50,000.

The old town is well preserved with many magnificent baroque buildings, a number of palaces and of course cathedrals snd churches.  The centre is pretty much reserved for pedestrians and cyclists of whom there are many as the city seems to be full of students.

Had a powerful organ recital in the cathedral and once again did a lot of walking.  Coffee too - $3 for two hot and good size lattes and later on $1.80 for a pot of beer.  Quite a bit cheaper than Zagreb which is itself very reasonable.

Full bus on the way back, dropping off and picking up along the way.

Fingers crossed, off to a Rotary make-up tonight at the Rotary Club of Zagreb Centar.

Mirogoj and Samobor

The hotel is full and we were relocated to the Bistro for breakfast ....so we had no opportunity for champagne this morning....damn.

A quick visit to the Cathedral for a brief attendance at Sunday's service.  Very good congregation in magnificent Cathedral still being restored after the Balkan wars.

Bus to Mirogoj which is a stunning cemetry.  The very impressive colonnade looks like a fortress from the outside and there are some amazing tombstones - a Zagreb must see.

Then to Samobar for the afternoon.  About 30km south of Zagreb with a fast running stream, it's a haven for relaxation (and cakes).  Beautiful walk along the stream with plenty of trout, including some of very good size.

Zagreb

The Esplanade Hotel is the finest in town.  It has had the rich and famous as guests including Presidents, Prime Ministers, Orson Welles, Omar Sharif, Ronaldo - and now it has Pat from Footscray in residence.

Walked the old town, Market, cathedrals, the parliament, Presidential Palace, the Stone Gate.  Had a visit in the Museium of Relationship Breakdowns and saw and read some interesting exhibits.  Took the funicular, walked the Ilica and shopping time for Pat.

Zagreb is very much a tram city.

Dinner at Ivica I Marica (Hansel & Gretels) on Tkaliciceva.  Grilled squid and turkey cordon bleu.

Ready to go ......... and now we are in Zagreb

The bags are packed and the piggy bank raided.

You know you are still in Melbourne when this is what greets you at the airport.

Friday 20 September we are into Zagreb via Doha and Budapest.  Arrived in pretty good condition despite more than 24 hours of travel.  Our hotel is the Regent Esplanade which was originally built to service the Orient Express Railway.

Had an exploratory walk through parks, entertainment and a market in Trg Josipa Jelacica before moving into the streets and streets of outdoor restaurants and cafes.  Zagreb is certainly a cafe society and there were people everywhere as all the cafes have big outdoor flatscreens and Croatia was playing Lithuania in basketball.

Back to the Esplanade for sleep catch up.